All photos here
This summer I plan to hike the East Coast Trail along the eastern shore of Newfoundland. 300+KM over a period of three weeks. I would like to average 15 to 20 km a day giving me time to enjoy the sights and sounds and get in a little kayaking.
When I can I will be adding photos and updates as my time passes on the trail.
UPDATE: Plans change and I realized that this was never going to happen without causing my body too much pain. So I switched it up after spending 5 days and 4 nights hiking the East Coast Trail I decided to stay in St John’s do some day hikes, go kayaking, and generally eat a lot of great food in town.
One of many great views
Day 1 – Portugal Cove towards Bauline
Ok, so what idiot thought he could average 15km to 20km a day. After a grueling 5 hours and 5 km where I swear my pack gains weight the farther I hike. I found a beautiful spot to camp for the night. Sites are near Brock’s Pond so there’s plenty of water for drinking and cooking if needed.
These first two sections are some of the more difficult sections of the East Coast Trail so hopefully, once they’ve been completed I’ll be able to increase my pace.
Day 2 Brock’s Head Pond to Bauline
Day 3 Bauline to Pouch Cove
After Days Two’s hike, I was going to rest up in Bauline for the day and hope the heatwave would break. I quickly realized that there’s nothing in Bauline except about 20 homes and a boat launch.
No restaurants, shops, or anything.
There is a great river with natural pools of water so I spent some time relaxing in
the cool water.
Packed up camp, rested in the shade for a few hours, and then headed back out on
the trail.
Pouch Cove
Arrived at Pouch Cove hoping to find a B&B to stay at.
Great little town, within five minutes a local resident had come over to try and help me out, showed me where the town hall was a suggested a couple of places to stay. Told me about his cousins who drowned in the bay above and wished me luck on my way.
Went into the town hall and the two women working there tried their hardest to find something I hadn’t already tried. Let me fill my water bottles from their water cooler which tasted great after days of filtered pond water.
Alas all the inns were full, except one where the owner was away and the person left
in charge didn’t know how much to charge for a room, so I continued hiking.
Day 4 continued Pouch Cove towards Flatrock
Day 5 rest of the way to Flatrock
Slept in and slow morning getting started. Had some breakfast and then tried using my Biolite stove to charge my iPhone. Wood was very damp after yesterday’s rain so getting the fire started was troublesome. Wasted an hour burning wood to only get about a 6% charge on iPhone. Packed up and started hiking.
While hiking I decided that no matter what I was sleeping in a bed tonight.
Met a couple that had started the East Coast Trail 18 days earlier at the southern starting point in Cappaheyden, my wishful endpoint. They said they were averaging 15km a day and had 2 days to go before they reached their end of the trail. Don’t know how they do it. They seemed happy but were glad the endpoint was in reach. They told me that there were whales offshore just ahead so with something to spur me on we parted.
Sure enough at Red Head Cove there were Humpback whales swimming.
Passing the waterfall above was the last step before reaching Flatrock.
Flatrock is a small community on the edge of the island with little else than a few homes and a fishing wharf.
Took a break and watched some cod fishermen bringing in their catch and boat.
I had now decided that my destination was St. John’s and nothing else although it was 16 kilometers away. I started the long walk out of town. With no power and no way to recharge my phone I knew it was going to be a long walk so I decided to see if I could hitch a ride with someone. Thankfully after about 20 minutes, I got a ride to the next town, 5km, further down the road.
I started walking and a few minutes later I spotted a Canada Post outlet at the side of the road. It was Sunday so it was closed but on the outside wall were two sets of electrical outlets. 😁 That’s me super happy.
Tried the first set, no power.
Tried the second set and success. Plugin my iPhone and five minutes later I’m on booking.com reserving a room at the Sheraton in St. John’s. Next, I find a local taxi service and they actually come and pick me up at the post office. 30 minutes later I’m checked in and taking a hot shower for the first time in five days.
Day 6 Resting in St John’s
After a great night’s sleep spent a good chunk of the day exploring Signal Hill.
Great breakfast at The Battery Cafe and fantastic lunch sushi at Sun Sushi.
Rested up feet for rest of the day, they needed it.
Day 10 Cape Spear to St John’s
Got a taxi ride from my Airbnb in St John’s out to Cape Spear. Had a look around at the lighthouses there. Stood in the easternmost spot in Canada and then started to hike back.
Day 12 Kayaking in Bay Bulls
Great time kayaking with The Outfitters
Big swells, unlike anything I’ve ever kayaked. Explored all the little coves and inlets along the southern shore of Bay Bulls. Great guide Girard kept everyone informed and safe.
Day 13 Whale and Puffin Watching Tour
An hour and a half boat tour visiting some of the islands of the Witless Bay Islands Park Reserve. Home to the largest North American colony of puffins. Many other seabirds can also be found there.
Everyone is commenting that this year had not been great for icebergs and whales. No icebergs anywhere near St. John’s and few whales. No whales seen today.
Day 14 Return Home
The last day in Newfoundland spent the early morning packing and sorting out equipment. Recycling leftover fuel at The Outfitters since I can’t bring it back on the plane.
Flight is not till 5:20 so I spent the day revisiting places in St. John’s.
A quick stop at The Battery Cafe before hearing back up Signal Hill for one last look for whales. None there today. One last photo from the top of Signal Hill of the end of the East Coast Trail on the other side on the narrows.
Had my first all-vegan meal at the Peaceful Loft and it was delicious.
Another climb up the hill to my Airbnb to catch a cab to the airport. Porter Airlines on time, as usual, love flying with this airline.